Plumbing

Although it seems minor, I wanted to dedicate an entire section to plumbing because I think it is overlooked in most systems. The first maxim in home brewery design is:

"There is always at least one more thing that needs to be changed."

With any change in your brewery, you will undoubtedly have some plumbing changes as well. That is why I think the plumbing is often overlooked - that is until people start making changes. At that point, they realize that there has to be an easier way. Removing hose clamps and tubing from barb connections is a pain, especially on brew day. Barb fittings are the most popular form of connection, but without a doubt, they are the biggest pain when changes are necessary, and I guarantee changes will be necessary eventually. This goes beyond just the brewing equipment, it goes to kegging and bottling as well, but for now we'll just deal with the brewing equipment.

The Miracle of Quick Disconnects (QD's)

I chose to use quick disconnects for all the connections on my brewing equipment. I knew there would be changes and I knew that I couldn't leave the system intact all the time. There was really never a question about using the QD's. QD's make clean up and storage much easier, plus, everything can be connected and disconnected by hand in seconds. If you are considering a hard piped system - think very hard before you commit. Hard piping is permanent and so is the equipment that it is connected to. Remember the first maxim of home brewery design.

I purchased my QD's from US Plastics (part #'s 60465 & 60467). They were very inexpensive. They aren't made to last forever but at the price I paid, I could afford to buy extra.

Use the Right Tubing

Because we are pumping liquid, there is a fair amount of pressure in the line. For this reason, I would not recommend the standard vinyl tubing used for siphoning, etc. When it gets warm it can swell and possibly burst. I use the braid-reinforced flexible PVC tubing. It is rated to 175 F and can easily withstand the pumping pressure at typical mashing and mash out temperatures (usually never over 170 F).

Brass is OK

There are some purists out there who will insist that brass fittings and ball valves are a big no-no in brewing. I say hog-wash. The only downside that exists is the presence of small (and I mean really small) traces of lead on the brass surface. A quick soak in a mixture of 2 parts vinegar and 1 part hydrogen peroxide will remove all traces of surface lead. The brass fittings and ball valves are much cheaper and more readily available than stainless steel. Having said that, I ended up purchasing stainless steel fittings on my system. I did this because I had a very good source for parts at cheap prices. If you compare the costs and decide that you really want stainless steel, go for it. But if you are looking for ways to save money on your brewery, you could do it here and I doubt if you would ever know the difference. Even after I purchased my stainless steel fittings and ball valves, I ended up a few parts short, so I used a brass fitting here and a brass ball valve there. I doubt if I will ever change them out for stainless steel after all is said and done.

Pick a Size and Stick With It

I have seen plumbing on a single homebrewery range from 1/4" to 3/4" and every size in between. This makes for real headache (remember the first maxim of homebrewery design). The best bet is to pick a standard size for everything and stick with it. For your homebrewery, you will probably choose between 3/8" and 1/2". 1/2" will give you a little more flow but the fittings and ball valves are a little more expensive. I chose 3/8" and have no regrets.

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